Grooming a dog is the process of keeping its coat, skin, ears, and extremities clean and neat. It may include clipping and/or plucking the coat, but it is not confined to these procedures. Regular grooming is a good routine to establish with a dog. Not only will frequent brushing and combing keep the dog clean and free from snarls and mats, it will also do a great deal to keep a dog's skin and coat healthy and free from problems. A grooming session also provides an excellent opportunity for the owner to look the dog over for changes and abnormalities (parasites, lumps, rashes, wounds or sores). The process itself is usually mutually enjoyable for both dog and owner, providing a quiet time for togetherness. Many owners who take care of their pets' everyday grooming still opt to take their dogs to a professional groomer on a regular basis for bathing, clipping, nail trimming and other routines. Young puppies should be accustomed to handling as soon as possible. Grooming and bathing a puppy should be introduced gradually in short sessions so there will be no problem later on. However, if a dog is skittish and frightened even with brushing, it has probably had a bad experience and will have to be shown gradually and calmly that there is nothing to fear. Owners sometimes become irritated and upset when a dog shies away from them or runs away when it is grooming time. What they need to realize is that it is not them but the routine or the tools that the dog is afraid of and that their annoyance will only frighten and confuse the animal even more. It may take some patient observation to determine the problem. With a little time and a lot of patience, almost all dogs will learn to like being handled and brushed and will soon stay still for a complete grooming. It is a good idea to assemble the tools that will be used for grooming and put them somewhere handy in a box, bag or drawer. A brush and comb and a pair of blunt-nosed scissors for long-haired dogs are all that most owners will require. Other tools such as nail clippers and tweezers can be helpful as well.

A Grooming Routine

Even if a dog does not absolutely need it, a quick brushing and combing every few days will help to keep its coat shiny and will remove loose hairs that would otherwise end up on the floor. All dogs need some regular grooming, even short-haired breeds.The frequency and extent of brushing and combing depends on the kind of coat the dog has and on what he might get into. A long-haired dog who romps in a yard full of bushes and burrs will need to be brushed and combed thoroughly more often than a short-haired dog who spends its time in an apartment. There is no hard or fast rule as to the best time to have a grooming session, but it is not a good idea to handle any dog, especially a young pup, immediately after it has eaten. Nor is it practical to expect a dog to stay qiuet for brushing and combing when it needs to go out. It really does not matter where a dog is groomed, Professional dog groomers always put the animal up on a table to work on them. The dog tends to be quiet and it saves the groomers back. Laps work well with grooming small dogs, and it is easiest to brush a big dog while it is standing and your sitting on the floor. Some dogs prefer to lie down while being groomed and will often be so relaxed that they fall asleep. Both dog and owner should be able to look on grooming as a pleasant experience, rather than a scary and hurtful one, and the responsibility is on the owner to provide a calm, relaxed atmosphere for grooming.

Brushing and Combing

It is easy to brush a dogs back and throat, but many animals balk at having their feet or legs handled. Owners of dogs with touchy feet and legs will have to experiment with the most satisfactory way to work on them. If a dog pulls away when its leg or foot is held to be brushed, let go. Usually is not the actual brushing or combing that the dog objects to, but in fact of having its leg restrained. Try resting the foot in your palm, as if the dog is shaking hands, and use gentle brush strokes. When the dog realizes that it will not be held tightly by the foot, it will probably permit its legs and feet to be groomed. Other dogs like to have their feet and legs worked on when they are lying on their backs or sides, legs extended. Some never do learn to like their feet or legs to be touched, and owners will have to be gentle and quick as they can about the whole thing. Dogs also often object to having their faces and tail areas and tummies touched. Gentle hand stroking and patience will usually will bring a dog around. These are all delicate areas, so care must be taken not to pinch, pull or hurt a dog or its trust will be shaken. Ears especially long ones, are often tender and need a gentle touch. If a dog steadfastly refuses to let its ears be brushed or cries when its ears are touched, suspect an ear infection. In very dry weather, a slightly damp terry cloth washcloth rubbed over a short-haired coat may help to settle it down and remove remaining loose hairs. Double coated dogs (German Shepherds, Collies etc.) require special attention to remove loose hairs and should be brushed from the skin outward. If there are mats or tangles in a long-coated dog, they should never be yanked out, but should either be "worked out" gently with fingers and a wide-toothed comb or snipped out with scissors. Sometimes a drop of mineral oil will help loosen mats.

Fleas and Ticks

When grooming a dog, an owner may come across either of these parasites. Fleas usually appear in the thick fur at the base of the dog's tail or around the neck; often, the small black exudate is all that is visible. Ticks are likely to adhere to a dog around the head, in the ears, and between foot pads. They can appear as small, flat, dark brown beetlelike bugs or have large tan beanlike appearance when they are engorged with blood. They adhere firmly and must be pulled off with tweezers. If the engorged females are allowed to drop off a dog, they will eventually lay many thousands of eggs. The most important thing for dog owners to know about controlling these two parasites is that they do not live on the dog, but feed on the dog. Therefore is not enough to rid a dog of fleas or ticks; the environment must be rid of them also. In cases of severe infestations it is often neccessary to use strong "bombs" or foggers in a home, and a professional exterminator may be required. Eggs, larvae and parasites can also live in an outdoor location such as a doghouse or run, and it may be neccessary to exterminate too. In warm climates, this can be a year long problem. If you put 1/2 a tablespoon of dried yeast flakes and one minced garlic clove in each meal will change the flavor of there blood and fleas will take one bite and say "ugh." But do not overdo the garlic intake of your dog. Dogs over 55 pounds can have up to 2 teaspoons a day and smaller dogs can have one quarter to one half teaspoon a day of garlic. 

Looking over a Dog

Once in a while it is a good idea to thoroughly examine your dog from head-to-toe. Check the eyes, nose ears, and mouth, and lift the dog's tail and look at the anal area for soreness or redness or any dried fecal matter. Long-haired dogs in particular often have problems with pieces of stool that get caught in their fur. If this should happen, wash with warm water, or cut any dried matter out with a blunt pair of scissors. Trim the fur in this area. Swelling or redness may be a sign of anal sac (gland) impaction.

Foot Pads

Hold the dog's foot gently upside down and run a finger tip between each pad to check for stuck material or sore spots. Foot pads should be hard and leathery, and the spaces between them should not be wide or spread. Old dogs foot pads sometimes splay or spread, due to arthritis or other conditions. If this should happen, take care that the feet do not become irritated by too much abrasion on hard surfaces or chemicals used to remove ice or snow in the winter and in gardens in the spring and summer. Gently rinse the feet with warm water and baking soda if the spaces between the pads look sore, and then make it a practice to rinse the dog's feet each time it comes in. If a dog exercises vigorously on a hard surface, check to be sure that the pads have not become tender or overcalloused. Any severe or persistent foot problems may need to be looked at by a trained professional (doggy doctor).

Eyes

While brushing a dog's face, gently clean away any dried matter in the in the corner of the eyes with a washcloth or cotton swab moistioned with warm water, a mixture of warm water and baking soda  or a mild saline solution. A healthy dog's eyes should be clear, not red, and have no discharge except for a few tears. Some dogs do have a normal watery eye syndrome that causes brown stains on either side of the nose.

Ears

A dog's ear should be looked over every once in a while in the course of grooming. If the inside of the ear flap or pinna, looks dirty, it can be cleaned gently with a small piece of cloth or cotton wrapped around a fingertip and moistened with mineral oil. Nothing should ever be poked into a dogs ear canal. The folds of skin around the ear should also be cleaned. A cotton swab will reach into small crevices. Long-haired or long-eared dogs sometimes get a heavy growth of hair on the undersides of their ears or at the opening of the inner ear, which can collect dirt and eventually interfere with hearing. This excess hair should be removed. This is best done by a professional dog groomer.

Mouth and Teeth

With a dog's mouth closed, pull back on its lips to expose gums and teeth. Healthy gums are pink and firm, and the teeth should be firm and free from any bad stains. Pushing gently on the corners of the jaw, open the dog's mouth and examine the tongue and the insides of the teeth. If the gums are pale or bleed when touched or if there are any swellings or red marks inside a dog's mouth they should be seen by a trained professional(doggy doctor). We recommend that owners brush, or clean their dog's teeth regularly to remove tartar and invisible plaque, which can cause tooth loss. An adult dog who has never had proper tooth care should have an initial scaling performed by a trained professional (doggy doctor) to remove hard tartar that will have built up over the years. As with all routines, the younger the dog, the easier it is to get used to having its teeth cleaned. Begin by using a rough cloth, such as a washcloth or gauze square wrapped around a finger, and rub the teeth from gum to tip. Work up to a rougher cloth and then to a toothbrush. Using a child size toothbrush with medium bristles, brush each tooth from the gumline to the tip with a mixture of one half salt and one half baking soda, slightly moistened. Do not use toothpaste designed for humans, as it can cause stomach irritaion and dogs don't like the foaming. Sensitive, loose or broken teeth should be seen by a trained professional.  

Less frequent Routines

Some kind of dog care are only done on an "as needed" basis.

Nail Clipping

Unless a dog is walked daily on pavement, its nails will need regular clipping. Dogs are born with a dewclaw, an extra claw that grows just above the foot on the inside of the dog's leg. In some breeds, this claw is removed when a dog is young, if not, it must also be trimmed. If a dog's nails are allowed to grow too long, they can cause the toes to spread or splay, making it difficult for the dog to walk; they can catch on things and tear; or they may become ingrown, curling back painfully into the foot pads. Too-long nails can also snag furniture and carpets and scratch floors and people. If a dog is groomed commercially, nail clipping will usually be done when needed. Many owners prefer to do this job themselves. Although nail clipping is not painful, most dogs do not like it very much and owners need a firm, sure hand to accomplish it successfully. An owner who is at all nervous or apprehensive about nail clipping probably should not attempt it. Before clipping a dogs nails at home, it is inportant to have a grooming professional demonstrate the proper procedure. A good quality clipper designed specifically for dogs nails should be used. Human nail clippers are not strong or sharp enough. Hold the dog's paw gently so that it does not try to pull away. Having someone to calm and soothe will be very helpful the first few times. The nail should be clipped halfway between where the vein, or "quick," ends at the tip of the nail. If a dog has clear nails, it is not hard to see where the vein, or "quick," ends. If the nails are dark, it is a good deal more difficult, and it is best to take off just a little bit at a time. It is far better to clip to little than to take a chance of cutting into the vein. If you do, it will hurt and bleed a lot. A cotton ball or gauze pad held tightly over the end of the nail will usually stop the bleeding, but a styptic pencil, special powder, or a or a silver nitrate stick may sometimes be needed. The problem is rarely serious, but it will be very hard to convince the dog that it will never happen again. After clipping all of the nails, smooth the ends with an emery board or a nail file to remove sharp or rough edges.

Bathing

How often a dog is bathed depends a great deal on coat type and the wishes of the owners. A dog who is going to spend a lot of time in very close quarters with people, sleeping on laps and sharing beds with children, will probably be required to have a bath more frequently than one who spends most of its time outdoors. Many dogs never have or need a bath for their entire lives, others are bathed weekly. A good average for a normal housedog is about every four to six weeks. Bathing to often will remove natural oils and may lead to dry skin and exccessive shedding. In general, dogs with smooth oily coats such as beagles and Labrador Retrievers should only be bathed when absolutely neccessary. Their coats can be usually kept clean with regular brushing. Dogs with undercoats are very difficult to bathe and dry and should be bathed about evry six months at the most. On the other hand, long-haired or curly-haired dogs will probably need a bath every month to six weeks to keep clean. Before bathing a dog , brush out its coat to remove any tangles or mats, which will be much harder to get out when the fur is wet. If a dog's skin is especially sensitive, human baby shampoo can be used. Always bath a dog in a warm, draft free spot. A large dog can be washed outdoors on a summer day, but most dogs will fare better in small, indoor areas. Many owners bathe their large dogs by getting into the shower with them. Little dogs do well in the kitchen sink. If the tub or sink is slippery, line it with an old towel. Fill partly with warm water, lift the dog into the water, and gently wet its head and neck with a washcloth. Soap, lather and rinse very thoroughly in several changes of water. Next, wet the body and legs with a hose or spray, soap and rub, and rinse again and again. Especially dirty spots, such as legs and feet and tail areas can be washed, using a cloth or sponge. Be sure to rinse all of the soap out of the dog's coat, as soap residue can cause itching and irritaion. A cream rinse can make it easy to comb out a long-haired dog. Dry the dog immediately, rubbing gently with towels. If a dog has been accustomed to it, a hair dryer does a wonderful job of drying, but many dogs are frightened of the noise. Particular attention should be paid to the insides of the ears and cracks and crevices such as armpits. A dog should not be let outdoors until completely dry. It can take several hours for a dog's coat to dry thoroughly. If in doubt, feel the skin under the thickest part of the coat. Brushing long, damp hair tends to tear the coat. A wide-toothed comb can be used to straighten out a long coat while it is drying. After the coat is completely dry, a gentle brushing will restore sheen. If a dog has gotten involved with a skunk, soak the dog in tomato juice and then bathe.

Dry Baths

Sometimes a dog may get dirty when bathing is not convenient, or it may get dirty too frequently for bathing. You can take a damp cloth and rub your dog thoroughly to get excess dirt off of the top layer of hair. It is good to keep the furinture from been clotted up with smudges of dirt and debris.

Clipping, Plucking, Trimming and Professional Grooming

Some breeds of dogs require additional coat care. Curly-haired dogs must be clipped and trimmed, and some wire-haireds need plucking. If an owner wants to take care of a dog's coat at home, the best thing to do is to take a class or ask a local groomer if it is possible to watch while the dog is worked on. Owners who do not have the time, patience, skill or interest to clip or pluck their own dogs should find a professional groomer. a well-run grooming establishment should be clean and neat, and the dogs should be calm. A dog who is being worked on will usually be standing quietly on a table with minimum of restraint However, the dogs should not be over calm or lathargic and dopey. This might indicate that the establishment routinely uses tranquilizers, a practice that is not only unneccessary in most cases but that might be harmful. A good professional groomer should only resort to drugs in exceptional cases. A dog who has become used to being groomed professionally early in life will have no problems with the procedure. A first time adult dog may be understandably nervous and apprehensive. Once an owner has made a thoughtful choice of groomer, the best thing to do is to leave the dog quickly, with a minimum of fuss. The groomer has had to deal with new customers before. Very often the continued presence of the dog owner makes the situation more difficult.